Out now: Big John x Tenue de Nîmes
Dutch denim store Tenue de Nîmes and Japan’s oldest jeans brand Big John have teamed up for a limited edition natural indigo denim. The ‘slim-tapered’ collaboration refers to the legendary Big John M1002 from 1967 made from a 14.5 oz jeans fabric. By reducing the dyeing of the Kaihara fabric by 25%, the factory emphasized the traditional bright blue color that is referred to in Japanese as ‘Ruri’.
The color (Lapis lazuli, after a gemstone of intense blue color) is considered one of the seven treasures of Buddhism. The yellow selvage is a tribute to the traditional 1960′s fabric made by Cone Mills.
The duo logo patch is made from heavyweight navy blue leather with the Tenue de Nîmes and Big John logo embossed. The pockets of the jeans are lined with original, blue and white Dutch farmer’s cloth referring to the world renowned ‘Delft’s Blauw’. It also references the early Dutch-Japanese trade relationship.
Every pair of this edition has a replica of a 1st century BC Roman Empire coin from Nîmes as top-button. This limited edition consists of just 24 pairs, all of which have been made in Japan.
The jeans are exclusively for sale at Tenue de Nîmes for €219,90.
Eastcoast Punk meets Westcoast Beach bum - Copson St x Eastpak
Eastcoast Punk meets Westcoast Beach bum – Copson St x Eastpak
by Rizvi
Lifestyle blog/brand/collective Copson Street is proud to be a part of this years Eastpak Artist Series.
The project invited artists and musicians around the globe to customise 3 of Eastpak’s classic silhouettes. The launch takes place this Wednesday at Jaguar Shoes in East London, with the bags being exhibited there for the rest of the month.
Other UK artists include Comedian Tom Deacon and The Smiths’ Johnny Mar. Bags go up for Auction on the 19th March, with all proceedings going to ‘Designer Against Aids’.
Copson Street is a label dedicated to tropical living. “The bags were an extension of our SS 11 collection, amalgamating a number of subcultures & inspirations from the West & East coasts. Gritty NYC punk attitude married together with the speckles & shades of a summer evening on Venice Beach. Our own take on Americana I guess.”
POINTER Spring Summer 2012 - The Holden
Introducing The Holden, a new style for Spring Summer 2012…
Part of the Top Tier Rivington collection, Straddling laidback and sensible, the Holden, a non-brogue brogue, combines neat leather or suede uppers and either a contrast-coloured shark tooth sole or Pointer’s new studded golf-style EVA sole.
Ben Sherman SS12 Ad Campaign
Moving on from AU11’s theme of an Englishman in New York, Ben Sherman’s SS12 collection has been inspired by the journey from Brighton to Tokyo, resulting in a contemporary take on a Modernist Cruise Collection. With this voyage in mind and in acknowledgement of the sheer breadth of influence that created the line, we are proud to present the Spring / Summer campaign.
As an evolution of the previous season’s concept, and continuing our association with Dazed & Confused, working with Fashion Editor Robbie Spencer, and Photographer Ben Toms, we have tracked down six inspiring gentlemen from across the globe to be the subjects of the SS12 campaign.
Selecting characters that embody the global lifestyle of today’s Modernists, we sourced artists and designers, academics and craftsmen. From US based gallerist and publisher, Anthony, to Moses, an apprentice umbrellas maker, our subjects were given free reign over the collection, styling themselves and mixing their favourite pieces with articles and accessories from their own wardrobes.
Shot in Miami, Florida in late 2011, the location was chosen to ensure a sun-soaked aesthetic to the images, always a welcome sight as we emerge from the winter months and long for warmer climes.
The imagery and characters will appear as a six page feature with Dazed and Confused’s March Fashion Issue, on sale in February 2012. The issue will be accompanied by an article and exclusive film on Dazed Digital, as well as giving a behind the scenes insight into our subjects and the collection itself.
Wings of Desire
Hot to trot! With the maturing of the brand, it is only befitting that we trade up the skate shoes for a style more synonymous with the old streets of London. Crafted by the prestigious gents at Silas we are presented with the classic wing-tip brogue finished in plush suedes, Royal blue and dare we say a London fog grey. Finished on a ultra light EVA sole unit so as to make the transition easier for the hardened skater. Available at www.silasuk.com
Triwa x Salong Betong Tattoo Studio
Salong betong has made the tattoo artwork on a piece of organic leather, from Tärnsjö Tannery, which then has been cut out to 30 unique leather bands.
This is a fun collaboration because Triwa just like us is breaking boundaries within their industry. we also saw an interesting paradox in the fact that they are synonymous with colour whilst we only work with grayscales, says danne eriksson, founder of
Salong betong.
In order to make every band unique Salong betong has created the artwork on one piece of leather which has been cut out to 30 bands. The theme is a patriotic tribute to Sergelstorg, a famous meeting point in Stockholm, with its unique triangular pattern.
The bands are made from organic untreated leather which will give each band a unique patina.
This has been a great collaboration. we like working with art and tattoo art in combination with leather was a new and fun art form to explore, says ludvig Scheja, creative director.
The bands have been mounted on Triwa’s signature watch model “raven nevil”. This unique watch will only be sold on Triwa’s website: www.triwa.com. Price: 279 eur.
The Ultimate Travel Umbrella's for the Discerning Gentleman
A true luxury parasol umbrella with Royal Stuart tartan canopy, traditional hand-carved wooden handle and solid wood shaft. This peerless collector’s piece has a separate wooden shaft that attaches to the main shaft and has a tip to be sunk into the ground, transforming the umbrella into a venerable picnic parasol that provides suitable protection from inclement weather whilst tucking into the picnic hamper. Comes with a matching tartan sheath and shoulder strap for easy storage and carrying. A gentlemanly prerequisite for a relaxing day in the dales.
Ben Sherman SS12 lookbook Preview
Moving on from AU11’s theme of an Englishman in New York, Ben Sherman’s SS12 collection
has been inspired by the journey from Brighton to Tokyo. Combining classic British design
with the Japanese sensibility for style and innovation, we’ve produced a collection that fuses
east and west to see wardrobe favourites reworked and restyled in original and unexpected
fabrications.
Taking a contemporary approach to a Modernist cruise collection, the range draws influence from the holiday
wardrobe of the early 60’s.
Structured tailoring defines the silhouette and as ever, shirting is at the heart of the collection. Here deckchair
stripes in pastel shades, indigo washes and laundered fabrics contrast with prints influenced by Japanese
artisans, lending the garments a real vintage feel. Madras checks lift the pallet with bold tones whilst tonal
summer florals present a more discerning statement. Spring also sees the introduction of The Gingham
Factory, where this shirting classic is deconstructed and reformed in a contemporary manner.
Knitwear focuses on texture, with crochet and engineered details adorning slouchy jumpers, while cotton
linen blends provide lighter options. Outerwear sees a refreshing take on the pea coat, reimagining this
wardrobe staple for the warmer days of spring. With particular attention to functionality, the collection also
features a variety of technical pieces including a performance cagoule. Elsewhere a beautiful bonded mac
and a travel trench made with memory fabric make transeasonal layering effortless, whilst not compromising
on style.
A strong tonal theme runs through the collection, focusing on layering of neutral shades with pops
of ginger, soft yellow, rose and mint adding vibrant pops to the pallet.
EDWIN DENIM - MADE IN JAPAN FILM
For 35 years, Edwin Japan have worked on improving efficiency, quality, construction and washing methods by studying and engineering machinery used in the denim manufacturing process.
It is impossible to improve what one makes without spending the time everyday to master what one does, turning ones profession into a craft. The denim technicians at Edwin are true craftsmen, as their commitment and attention to the product is unquestionably what makes the Edwin product stand out from the mass of denim available within the market today. Whilst this remains ‘production’, the working philosophy remains closer to a greatly more efficient and productive Artisanal method.
They are ‘engineers’. Each person, over the course of a long period is encouraged to be responsible for maintaining and improving their machines. This means that each machine is self-customised beyond standard industrial purposes, to create unique and specialised ways of making denim. Even within the well-known denim brands factories around the world, you will not see the level of customised machinery and attention to product that one can see at the Edwin factories in Japan. It is for this reason, many ‘core heritage’ Japanese denim brands wish to have their products made within the Edwin Japan factories. This is the unique strength of the Edwin Jeans brand, the product itself.
The majority of the technicians at the Edwin factories and laundry’s have worked within the company since the beginning. This means they have an acute understanding for their machine. Each technician is responsible for three machines on average, all performing different elements of the production process. They remain on these machines for the duration of the careers. There is almost now rotation of staff, offering complete consistency in the making.
The machines are completely unique and totally custom made, exclusively to EDWIN JAPAN, which sets EDWIN out as a denim manufacturer worldwide. There is not a single machine, which has not been customised by the technicians over the time they work on them.
The technicians themselves are trained for two years with a veteran of their particular machines, prior to them leaving for retirement. This ensures absolute consistency and understanding for high quality workmanship. As the factories have been operating 35 years, there is now a seeding of new, younger apprentices learning the ropes, thus setting of the career cycle.
There are many elements unique to EDWIN Japan manufacturing, for which unfortunately we are not able to show images. This is due to the secretive nature of the processes, elements having been invented by EDWIN, and must be respected and protected. There are a wide variety of processes invented by the denim engineers and designers themselves, which set new standards within the industry offering evolution and ingenuity.
The laundries are incredible, with bespoke and exclusively made machines. Unique ways of washing, dying, drying and above all water purification and recycling. The water is purified to the point whereby once all the indigo and other impurities have been extracted, fish are able to swim in tank of the purified water.
These elements have been in place for many years, and yet never spoken about or promoted as a marketing tool. This is because Edwin esteems this to be a ‘standard’ process. It is simply the way of EDWIN manufacture and not a simple ‘marketing’ idea.
Denham x Method
A collusion encapsulating the Denham ethos and detail-rich approach to design, in the Method style. Bringing together traditional and innovative elements to create an utterly unique piece of luxury furniture
· A solid ash skeletal framework – echoing the birch bark canoe or bi- plane wing structure – for lightness and flexibility.
· Gently curved grain feature carefully divined for superior rib strength.
· Held together with over 200 interconnected traditional joints
· Skinned in virtually weightless 1.5mm birch
· Knitted to the rib structure with over 150 hand-Japanned, custom engineering fixings. (With every head meticulously lined up)
· The Journeyman’s innovative inward curving form allows only the outward edges to ever touch the ground – these are covered in locally hand-stitched leather.
· Moved around with thick, hand-cut leather handles and locked with beautifully contrasting, industrial case fittings.
· Internally, the left side of the Journeyman contains a generous garment hanging space, sealed in from the elements by a handcrafted flysheet of the finest Japanese selvedge denim, detailed with re-cut vintage leather.
Unlocking the intricately hand-carved drop-down work surface reveals the true secrets of the Journeyman
· An elegant column of carousels – all carved from the same piece of solid ash – swivel out to reveal spare buttons, rivets, thread spools etc.
· Over 50 hand-cut leather discs fasten a webbing of straps to safely secure the tools of the jeanmakers trade.
· Wire-whipped vertical shock cords weave the solid ash shelving together, creating a virtually weightless securing method for garments, while custom steel dogs and unique tapered ash plugs literally stitch the shelves into place
